Support Joachim https://paypal.me/vernondeck?locale.x... The Family that Dared is the story of the Campe Family who sold everything they owned, built a boat and set off on an adventure none of them would forget. This might sound all too common but the family did it in 1977! This is the 10th of 12 episodes that Joachim Campe filmed. They were all shot on 16mm film and have not ben seen since airing on German TV in 1984. Joachim, now 83 is very close to finishing another Circumnavigation aboard St Michel, the very same boat that the family sailed on four decades ago. His health has let him down and he is currently recuperating in Lombok, Indonesia and could use your support to get him sailing again. Enjoi! #Lombok #Learningbydoing #sailing If you enjoy my videos and appreciate the effort that goes into making them then perhaps you would be interested in supporting their production. A little goes a long way https://www.patreon.com/vernondeck https://paypal.me/vernondeck?locale.x... A link to a recent podcasts I've done: http://www.visualrevolutionary.com/podcast http://wearelookingsideways.com/podcasts/073-vernon-deck https://www.oceansailingpodcast.com/p... NEW!!! Get your Learning By Doing merch here!!! https://teespring.com/stores/learningbydoing SUBTECH https://www.subtechsports.com Promo code: teamsubtechvernon Discount: 20% off (Free Shipping World wide) Indiana Paddlesurf: https://shop.indiana-sup.ch VERNON10X (10% discount code) Please visit: http://www.vernondeck.com INSTAGRAM: https://instagram.com/Vernondeck/ FACEBOOK: https://goo.gl/WNrSV5
Closed Captions (CC):
Six of us as a family have been sailing the South Pacific for a year and a half. The Marquesas,
Tuamoto's, Savaii, Anuta and Malita are familiar geographic locations. The stories of the first
European explorers Cook, Dontrikot, Bugenville, Carterai and Laperouse connect with anchorages
such as Fatahiva, Hiva-oa, Bora Bora, Tukutea and Lelepa. In Papua New Guinea we will visit the lonely
atoll Mortlock. Polynesians live there. Missionaries have not yet started to establish
themselves on these islands. We will also fly to the highlands of New Guinea by plane and
roam an area that was only discovered by whites 50 years ago. Bartholome controls
our boat and would like to be replaced. Marie and Laetitia have come into the cockpit to feel
a little fresh wind before they prepare breakfast in the cabin. Sylvestre comes from the
foredeck, he checks whether the sail bags, water canisters, the life raft and the dinghy are
still tight after a rough night. We hope to spot the Mortlock atoll on the horizon. Every atoll is surrounded
by a reef. The reef and atoll are difficult to spot in rough seas from a small boot.
The waves obstruct the palms and rockwall. A reef nearby, especially at night, is a deadly danger.
The navigation has to be right. I am constantly under the pressure not to make mistakes.
We are dependent on sextant, clock and charts. My nautical chart says, Mortlock,
position questionable, probably different from map position, six nautical miles to the northwest.
This information increases my anxiety ,nobody seems to be interested in the exact mapping of a tiny atoll.
The family works onboard, it's not just the schoolwork that keeps the children busy.
Maria and Bartholome struggle with the sewing machine. Even threading the thread through the eye of
the needle. When the sea is rough, it creates a bad feeling in the stomach. Having to live
with all broken or broken pieces of equipment is usually the curse and sometimes the
attraction of this long journey. Maintaining the sails, engines and hull takes a lot of time.
Calyxte has taken over the helm, he is nine years old and has lived at sea for five years.
When we spent time in Seattle USA, we sent Calyxte to
a teacher, she was horrified that he did not know the colors of the traffic lights.
Today he knows neither rock nor football stars but the stars of the sky.
Calyxte controls the boat well and with a full sense of responsibility. I shake off allegations that we
tear the children out of their school and circle of friends. I believe in this upbringing. We give the
children confidence. They constantly have to learn to deal with new situations and people.
To lie protected at anchor behind a reef, the rustling of the palm trees. To hear
no more worries and no more tension seems to me a distant dream.
The change from the open sea to the anchorage is always unexpectedly sudden for us. At sea we
are challenged to exhaustion. Water and wind are relentless until the last moment.
At anchor there is only peace and relaxation. Mortlock will meet our aspirations.
Most of the time during our journey around the world we live in anticipation.
Expectation and the sudden confrontation with reality is our adventure. The Polynesians receive us with
the kindness we had hoped for. Calyxte begins his friendships carefree.
That he has to part again doesn't bother him. We have anchored many times at tropical islands, but
no island seemed so bright and welcoming to us from the first moment as Mortlock.
Far from the world we want to sail we stay without thinking about the time.
The meat of the Tridacta mussel is one of the few foods available to the
islanders. Fish, coconut, bananas, taro roots, chicken and rarely a roast bird and mussel
meat from them must live every inhabitant here.
Man and nature are in a fragile equilibrium. Stocks of fish, mussels
and roots are limited. the dependence on it is clear. Nobody needs to talk
about environmental protection here. The polynesians outrigger canoes landed
on this atoll about 500 years ago. Mortlock has its own language the Taratara Takuu. in addition to the smile of the reception
comes the music of Polynesian life. You don't need a big occasion for a dance here.
Mortlock atoll is 80 nautical miles east of Kieta, a port town on the
Bouganville coast. Further east lies the Tasman atoll and to the south the atoll, Ontong Java,
in the territory of the Solomon Islands. In the middle of the Melanesian world of
the Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea, only the atolls of Polynesia are populated.
A small merchant ship operates between the atolls and Kieta. Soacca and Huarini fish Beche de Mer,
a sea cucumber that is cooked and smoked and sold to Asia as aphrodisiacs.
The sea crashes against the reef and the peace within the lagoon cannot be disturbed.
Yet far from Kieta comes a dangerous threat to the Polynesian community.
A few years ago, the world's largest copper mine was built near Kieta.
the young people, the most enterprising men on the island are tempted
to work in opencast mines by the high wages. The girls on the island are not happy about it.
The withdrawal of the men pulls the vitality of the community. When these men
come back to the atoll from the mine they bring alcohol, diseases and a new moral with them.
Sylvester loves the fast outrigger boats, called Te-a Waka Faila, but even more so the people of Mortlock.
At night the men come on our boat. For many hours they sit on deck with
the kerosene lamp, sing and hold the fishing lines in the sea. Sylvestre is always with them and often sleeps on land. His friends
want to keep him on Mortlock. Sylvestre feels that he would remain an outsider in this society
and yet life on Mortlock seems very tempting to him. How will he find his way
in our society, in two years when we have finished our journey around the world?
What power will the memories of this atoll and his friends Theao and Fifita have.
When the men gouge the sea cucumbers, the older women prepare a harvest.
The traditional belief is alive, but no longer has the dominant power of past times.
The chief of the island determines when a spiritual dance takes place.
The atoll Mortlock consists of the reef, the protected water within the
atoll in which we anchor and several small islands. each island has its own
function. The village is on the island of Nukutua, the island of Taku is the garden island.
Coconut, bananas and taro are grown there. Sylvestre and Soaka harvest the taro root.
Saoka goes to garden island every day. Taro root, mashed and cooked, is eaten twice a day.
Wrapped in the leaves of the taro plant, the fish is fried. the locals like
our canned food for a change. Marie cooks desserts in her largest pot.
While the children are living more and more to the rhythm of Mortlock, I have
to think of our second venture, the flight to the highlands. We have to
sail to New Guinea and from there charter a plane to fly to Monplusable. Time goes by quickly
for us too . When we left France five and a half years ago, we wanted to be back in
three years. how long can I extend this journey with a clear conscience.
Next to Beche de Mer, dried coconut meat, called copra, is the island's
second source of income. The women bring coconut from garden island to living island.
Very little money is paid for Copra today. 100 years ago it was different.
A German administrator resided on Mortlock for the legendary Queen Emma, a native
Samoan who had married a white trading captain. For ridiculously low
values like tobacco and macheten she bought the plantation rights on many
islands and made a big fortune with Copra. Their palatial
residence at Rabaul and their Champagne festivals were well known throughout the Pacific.
Queen Emma died in Monte Carlo and her riches disappeared as quickly as it came into being.
Even strenuous work is carried out calmly and cheerfully, there is always time for fun, singing or reflection.
Sometimes the men succeed in catching a sea turtle. Environmental dances and traditions
are very vulnerable. The inhabitants do not want to tell anything about their religion. They are
shy and withdrawn. I think you feel pushed into a kind of outsider position
by the reports from the western world. Young people, especially the girls want
to be connected to a world that they know from hearsay. None of us want to leave Mortlock
and yet circumnavigating the world is a must for us and departure is inevitable.
The children urge me to stay longer and skip the flight to the highlands of New Guinea.
I do not want too. Landing in a valley that white people entered for the first time only a few decades
ago seems too tempting to me.
The evening chants of the men led by the chief tell of the journeys across the sea of the experiences of the ancestors.
The jungles of New Guinea are below us. We fly over the Tagari River. Inexplicably,
it was believed that these highlands were uninhabited until 1920, when gold seekers reported people
living an intensive tribes, expeditions followed and soon the western world knew that
700,000 people remained undiscovered here until the 20th century. Undiscovered from our point of view.
The plane dropped us off in Monplusable. It was not until 1965 that the Australian administration of
Papua New Guinea brought this area under their control. The missionaries followed and built an airfield.
Mosquitoes and blutengel torment us. Hanging on lianas makes
bathing in the river a relief for Sylvestre Bartholome and Laetitia.
We want to get to the densely populated highlands of Umtavi. We find shelter
in the small villages at night. We sleep in the vacant huts of the
Kiab, that's what the officers of Australian patrols were called. The smoke in the longhouse
drives away the mosquitoes. A whole tribe lives together in the long house. The mission station
relocates the residents from the long house to single-family houses. Traditional
life dies quickly, as the custom is geared towards communal life in the long house.
In the area of Taria we experience our first "Pig Kill". A "Big Man", an important
man died a year ago. his spirit is to be honored today. According to the Highlanders' belief,
the soul of a dead person only stays alive as long as it is thought of.
48 pigs are slaughtered. the more pigs are killed,
the bigger the celebration and thus the honor of the dead.
The rearing of the pigs is the responsibility of the women. They take care of the pigs with the care that
our society might give to a beloved dog and yet the women bring
their pigs to the Pig Kill without a sign of sadness because the sacrifice increases the reputation of the family.
In this society, the one who gives away the most pigs and mussels is the most respected.
Although that is a prerequisite for giving, but giving is what is essential.
Even today, the Bride price is negotiated in pigs and mussels,
in this formerly moneyless society.
Everyone registers here who brings which pig. At the end of the Pig Kill, the roasted
meat is divided up. They have to make note for the recipient which parts have been given by whom
because one day he is obliged to give back a more valuable pig part to
the donor on the occasion of another pig kill if he wants to keep his reputation.
Traditional clothing includes the Billum, a natural fiber knotted
sack that is swung around the shoulder or forehead. Everything is carried in this bag,
fruit, firewood, hunted booty, including children and children, and small utensils such as tobacco or a flute.
The bamboo knives are sharp like razor blades and are also used for
shaving. The knife is sharpened by simply pulling off one slice.
The pork roasts in an earth oven similar to the Polynesian Umu. The pork parts are placed
on stones heated by fire and then covered with banana leaves
and filled with earth. After half a day in the earth the pork is cooked and ready
to distribute. A small part is also given to us. It tastes excellent!
Since we cannot give back any pig parts later, I give my pocket knife to the donor,
which also helps our reputation. Men and women adorn themselves with the crescent-shaped china shell.
The men have a toucan beak on their necks and wild boar or dogs' teeth.
A Kosovar bone always sticks through the braided bark belt. The men with the
flower wigs belong to the Huli tribe. The wig is a symbol of preferred position
and is made from the cut off hair of the wearer, from snakeskin flowers and
bird of paradise feathers. The Hulis wear their wig every day, even when working in the fields.
Often the living hair is intertwined with the wig so tightly that the wig is not removed
even at night. A neck support is then used to sleep on, similar to a small bench.
The innards are stuffed into a bamboo cane with kumu, a type of spinach, and cooked.
Innards are only eaten by women. The highlands of New Guinea are 1900 meters above
sea level. Pigs have been reared in these highlands for 9,000 years.
The Pig Kill takes place on Kaukau Field. Kaukau means sweet potatoes. In addition to
the Yam and Taro root, it is the food source of this society. The sweet potato was
introduced into the highlands, one theory says that it came from South
America, another that it was brought to the highlands from Asia. The time is unknown.
A big man gives the two wives of the deceased pig parts.
You can read and compare his appreciation by the size and type of the pigs assigned to you.
The neck of the pig is considered to be the best part.
We leave the festival to go to market, in the evening there is not a piece of rubbish to be seen
on the kaukau field of the Pigs Kills, not because the
rubbish was carefully collected but because there was no rubbish.
The people are very friendly with us, we also show sympathy,
wear the jewelery of the residents and seek contact. Both the white plantation managers, which are
planting in the highlands, coffee, as well as the technicians for development projects,
mostly Australians, and the Missionaries, are used to keeping their distance and distinction.
Men prepare for a Sing Sing. Since over 700 languages are spoken in Papua,
the government is calling for a simplified English with a different
spelling as the national language. Pidgin. Sing Sing is a pidgin word and means dance festival.
The colors and lines of the painting have symbolic meaning. Self-portrayal with colors, shells
and feathers is a specific art of the highlands. Bad or negligent
self-expression brings bad luck. No misfortune in a highlander's life is accidental.
There is always a guilty party and the guilt must be settled.
Compensation is a dominant topic for all men.
Discussions about how much pork or china clams to pay
easily lead to tribal feuds. frequent armed conflicts,
each limited to two tribes, reduce latent aggression and prevent major wars.
We saw a burning village and a destroyed road bridge.
Land belongs to the family clans. We are only allowed to roam through the fields
in the company of a respective family member. I am told again and again that we have enough land here.
In 1885 New Guinea was divided between Holland and England. At the conference table it was determined
to be 141 degrees west as the border, without even suspecting that this leads through a densely populated area.
Today the same border separates the state of Papua New Guinea, which became independent in 1975,
from Indonesia and is the reason for a tense relationship between the two nations.
We want to experience a big Sing Sing and go to Montags.
The warriors have rubbed their skin with pork fat.
Jewelry documents the status of the dancer. Omak are small bamboo tubes that are joined to form a plate
and worn around the neck. Each tube stands for a gifted
pig or eight Chinese mussels given away. Dance is not intended as a demonstration here.
Wahiki warriors wear the feathers of Princess Stefanie Bird of Paradise .
The shine and swing of the feathers make the wearer proud.
Red for the singer's women symbolises femininity, black is the masculine color.
TheBird of Paradise feathers are carefully stowed away until the next sing sing.
